Alchimia at Sieraad, Amsterdam

Last year was the first Alchimia encounter with Sieraad (Dutch word for jewellery) fair in Amsterdam, an appointment we believe has already become a must for all those interested in jewellery.

With great pleasure this year the school was invited to participate with an exhibition of the 2012 graduates.

The fair is located in the Westergasfabriek, a beautiful and charming industrial building of the turn of last century that transforms the usual aseptic environment of fairs in a much more staged and theatrical setting, indeed stimulating more creative approaches to booths and facilitating the viewers’ immersion (and attention to) in the visit.

85 jewelers  were participating, mostly from Europe but not only, with very recent creations. And we can say we were indeed extremely happy to see such a numerous public.

Besides the graduates work in the school booth, three of Alchimia graduates were showing their professional independent work, and we are very proud of them: Catalina Brenes, Carissa Hsu and Camilla Teglio

catalina Brenes, neckpiece

Carissa Hsu

Camilla Teglio, brooch

Exhibiting at a fair is an important experience for students and young professionals. It is vital to see comparatively the work and approach of colleagues, analyze the work of galleries and so the related paths different institutions are taking, see clients and their different tastes and customs due to lifestyle and climate. It is also a unique opportunity to encounter a big number of other professionals and so possibly engage in discussions as well as try out the ‘going public’  within an ‘experts’ environment.

We found particularly interesting the work of Tzuri Gueta, designer and artist based in Paris and the colourful fimo and resin creations of Jilian Moore, who was just in time because of the hurricane Sandy.

Tzuri Gueta

Jilian Moore, neckpiece

A reflection on the preservation of worldwide cultural heritage, on the reassessment of symbol bearers, on the creation of new traditions and on the simultaneous revival of old ones in a new form, was the purpose of this year’s” New Traditional Jewellery” contest with the title “New Nomads”.

The Jury was composed of: Isabella van den Bos, verzamelaar sieraadkunst, voorzitter Foundation Art in Business Els van der Plas, directeur, Premsela, Dutch Platform for Design and Fashion, Herman Hermsen; sieraadkunstenaar en Professor f r Schmuck- und Produktdesign Fachhochschule D sseldorf University of Applied Sciences. Marjan Unger, art historian and publicist ; Theo Smeets, University of Applied Sciences Trier – Dept. Gemstone & Jewellery Design – Campus Idar- Oberstein; AZIZ, fashion designer/artistEveline Holsappel, Curator applied art and design, Museum voor Moderne Kunst, Arnhem.Chequita Nahar; jewellery designer, Coordinator Department Jewellery & Product Design, Academie Beeldende Kunsten Maastricht.

These were the chose winners, within  3 categories:

Heester Popma-van de Kolk (NL)

Title: Wearable home ( two-sided necklace)   material: chips from sim cards, credit cards, telephone cards, yarn

The chips are woven together with yarn to form a flexible square mat. One side is decorated, the other is gold. The yarn remains visible as a reference to the contacts that are made using chips. “This necklace is only done justice when it is worn” says the jury. “In several, playful ways things are hidden and things are made visible, and at all times only one side of the necklace is visible.The decorated side refers to the issues of the day: time, communication, money. The golden side calls up associations of illustrious civilizations, like the Egypt of the pharaohs and the Mayas. At the same time the chips contain information not visible to the naked eye. This necklace is a bridge in time”.

Sang-Hee Park (ROK)

Title: To have a dream-To pursue a dream (brooch)  Material: goldplated copper, acrylic

Category students:   Maryvonne Wellen  (NL), Juliane Keßler (D), Patricia Correia Domingues (P)

Juliane Kessler

Title: Traffic sign (brooch)   Material: aluminium, steel

Juliane Keßler: ” Some animals roam the world, using the currents of the wind and the sea for transport. We, the new nomads, consume a lot of fossil energy for our fast progress. Overall, economic efficiency dominates. I oppose this by recycling old traffic signs made of aluminum. Traffic signs regulate movements of people. It takes a lot of energy to transform this aluminum into jewellery with guilloches.”

Maryvonne Wellen

Title: Portrait of a clan member (necklace)  Material: Plaster, Z-corp 3D print, paint, onyx

Maryvonne Wellen:” After collecting and archiving pictures of ethnography, I categorized them into a Western, an Oceanic, an African, an Asian and an American group. I decided to bring those different traditions and cultures together in collages using one piece of jewelry of each group to create a mask-like composition. I chose to use a mask form not only because it’s an ancient form known all over the world, but also because it covers the face and makes it possible for the wearer to take on another identity. This piece represents the melting pot of cultures, dominating not only today’s big cities but the internet as well.”

Patricia Correia Domingues

Title: Reflections on landscape 3 (brooch)  Material: reconstructed ivory, foam, steel, silver

Patricia Correia Domingues: ” We have always been related to space. The places we traversed were the places where human evolution developed. They are crossings, places of reflection, shaped by human hand. Mankind is walking, moving, displacing and generating movements. Being nomadic means not only moving or being displaced, but also finding a place to rest, like a rhythm. Periods of reflection alternate with times of accelerated development. I believe my jewellery is about this timeless rhythm, where the past belongs to the future and the future relates to the past. the old and new became the expression of my imagination. This is my luggage; these are the tools that enrich my perception. My material.”

Interesting works, for different reasons, and indeed completed by in depth (from more personal to more sociological) research.

We look definitely forward to next year!


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